He purchased his family’s second generation farm in 1983 – land once used partly for the largest turkey farm in Oregon.  Visiting with him in the vineyard he points across the property, “You see those silos over there.  Just beyond that is where I grew up.”  Maybe because of the family connection it is the vineyard that is closest to his heart.  “The soil has always felt closer than the chemistry.”

Bill recalls a summer when he was in the third grade.  He came home from Vacation Bible School and his father asked him to take the tractor and go harrow the lower field.  He had never pulled anything behind a tractor before and his dad offered no instruction.  “It was learning by doing and it really increased my confidence.”

He also remembers his uncle complaining about the rocks in the fields. “Maybe even at 15 or 16 I had an inkling this could be good vineyard soil.”

While visiting we got to taste the very first Stoller Chardonnay from 2001.  In the early years Stoller only sold fruit.  It was an amazing bottle that had developed beautifully demonstrating the fruit has always been stellar and the winemaking on track from the beginning.

Marking the 20 years is the addition of a second winemaking facility that will be ready in time for the 2015 vintage.  Stoller Family Estate has also begun keeping more of their fruit, a high demand commodity for other winemakers, for their own estate bottling.  Total production will increase to 32,000 cases.

Bill comments on the growth of the Oregon wine industry as a whole.  “The people in this business today, winemakers and oenologists, are so much smarter.  It is like Moore’s Law.  We have to double our speed every 2 years.”

Click here for a wine pairing and recipe with Stoller Family Estates 2013 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir.

Stoller Family Estates Pinot Noir and Summer Squash Salad

Wine pairing Weekend Assignment: Volcanic Soils.  In Oregon the state soil, jory, is a volcanic soil. Finding a wine from volcanic soil – easy.  Narrowing it down is another story.

We decided on Stoller Family Estate 2013 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir.  Dundee Hills AVA is often referred to as the “Red Hills of Dundee” because of the reddish volcanic soil.  Stoller’s 337 acre property with 195 acres planted to vine is the largest contiguous vineyard in the Dundee Hills.

“Red” Jory Soils photo courtesy of Enobytes Wine Online

 

We visited Stoller to help celebrate their 20 year anniversary.  Bill Stoller shared wines from his own collection and lunch was catered by Nick’s Italian Cafe in McMinnville.  Our favorite dish was a summer squash and bread salad topped with a poached egg.  We tried to figure out the recipe and then  just called Nick’s on the off chance they would share it.  And they did!  Well sort of.  A list of ingredients without measurements and vague instructions involving a wood oven – which we don’t have.  Oddly the person we spoke with asked not to be named.  Did we get a secret recipe?

Matters not because our version tasted 100% different from Nick’s.  It was still awesome and a great use for a bumper crop of squash.  We will make it again and again.

The 2013 vintage in the Willamette Valley is known as a “winemaker’s vintage.”  A perfect spring and summer pointed to a high yield, ripe fruit repeat of 2012.  A deluge of rain came in the 3rd week of September.  Some winemakers picked early while some took their chances on ripeness over rot.  In the end the skill of the winemaker was crucial to coaxing the best out of 2013 fruit.

It may seem strange to pair a red wine with this salad.  Indeed, we believe this dish could go with a wide range of acid driven wines with full fruit profiles – Gamay, unoaked Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, etc..  When we tasted the original dish it was paired expertly with a range of red wines from the 1980’s and 1990’s and we considered our pairing a success.

We firmly believe it is impossible to grill without a cold beverage.  Not only for the grill(er) but guests awaiting the main course also need to quench their thirst.  Beer is a great choice and one we have made many, many times.  If you want to serve a wine that everyone can enjoy paired with just about any appetizer, opt for a dry rose.  Our favorite rose this summer has been Stoller’s Rose of Pinot Noir.  It is pretty, watermelon(y) and delicious fun in the glass.  In these hot summer days, it has reached 100 in the Willamette Valley in June y’all, we think we could polish off a bottle a day.

Pinot noir and lamb are a classic pairing. People often equate Pinot noir with a more delicate flavor profile and seek something sturdier and frankly more approachable for burgers.  Ahh, but have you had a 2012 Pinot noir from Willamette Valley?  I know some are still on the shelves.  This was a warm, dry perfect year. The wines are lush, ripe, and juicy – like you landed in a berry patch without any thorns.

We attended an event recently called Pinot 365.  It was a tasting from wineries who are open 365 days a year.  Well, not literally. We were upset when we thought folks were working on Christmas. These are wineries that don’t close their tasting rooms in winter.  We stocked the H E Double Hockey Sticks up on fun 2012 Pinot noir.  Among the bottles that we adopted and gave a home to were 2012 Willamette Valley Pinot noir from Rex Hill, Ponzi, and Montinore Estate. Please note these are not the higher priced vineyard designates or reserve wines.  While those are always special, as are our burgers, we are talking about a casual meal.  Plus 2012 offered fabulously approachable wines at all price points.

We don’t think you could go wrong with a 2012 Willamette Valley Pinot noir. Of the ones we purchased the Van Duzer Vineyards was probably the most decadent.  We are not suckers for pretty labels but when they adorn bottles of pretty wine we are on board.  Look for a future article on Van Duzer. This wine is the only one that is available outside their wine club.  Really makes us curious about what we cannot have, so we are planning a visit soon.

A cadre of Oregon winemakers are on a mission to change that.  At least for Oregon Chardonnay.  Oregon Chardonnay isn’t California Chardonnay.  It isn’t Burgundy Chardonnay.  Who even says “Burgundy Chardonnay?’  We call it “white Burgundy” and it is above the fray.  So what is Oregon Chardonnay?  The jury is still out and that is both exciting and frustrating.

I had the privilege of sitting on the blind tasting panel to select the wines to be showcased at the 4th annual Oregon Chardonnay Symposium’s Grand Tasting. This was a thrill because I got to play an important role in an industry and region about which I am passionate. We tasted wines in flights and I swear the number of total wines we tasted seemed to grow each time the story was told. There were over 100. The criteria, other than selecting for quality, was to include wines that best represented Oregon’s style of Chardonnay. My hand went up. “And what is Oregon’s style of Chardonnay. How do we define that?  The answer… “That is what we are here to do.” I am sitting on the cusp.

Skip ahead a few months and I find myself at dinner the night before the Oregon Chardonnay Symposium.   I am at Adelsheim Vineyards.  If you don’t know, David Adelsheim brought the “Dijon clones” from Burgundy to Oregon that changed Oregon’s Chardonnay scene.  At the table are the organizers of the symposium, Paul Durant from Durant Vineyards and Erica Landon from Walter Scott Wines. I look around at  Erik Kramer from Domaine Serene, Arron Bell from Domain Drouhin, Rob  Schultz from Stoller Family Estates, and Ken Pahlow from Walter Scott Wines.  These wineries are major Chardonnay players – at the game long enough that we are tasting their library wines.  I am sitting in the hub.

As we taste they begin to sing the praises of Oregon Chardonnay.  Dave Paige,”If you are looking for viscosity then go have at it in California.  Oregon is more complex, livelier, more fragrant,”  Bell adds that you can have that texture too. “You can build an acid spine with texture around it. That is what is haunting about Chardonnay.  Kramer points out the “longevity, persistence, and ability to age.” It is no surprise since two glasses of 2005 Domaine Serene sit before us with the crackling acidity of youthful wine.

Talk turns from accolades to discussion. Should we [Oregon] talk about clones? Burgundy does not. Should we [Oregon] compare our Chardonnay to Burgundy? Can we call it cool climate? It is a good definition but will it resonate with consumers?  

Two things to note. They are brainstorming the best way to define Oregon Chardonnay to the world. I am sitting in the think tank. Even as they debate, correct, and play devil’s advocate they continually use the word “we.” This is Oregon and they are approaching problem solving like they always do – together. I am sitting in possibly the most collaborative wine region in the world.

The following day 250 people will meet in a tent in the rain to continue the discussion. I will write about it in the May issue of the Oregon Wine Press and post links on facebook, twitter, and google plus. Follow me if you haven’t already.

Pay attention world. Oregon is on to something. Pick up some Oregon Chardonnay and enjoy the crisp, fresh Oregon flavors while you watch this unfold.

Many thanks to Stoller Family Estates for providing lodging at their lovely wine country farmhouse. It is highly recommended as the perfect home base for wine getaways. Thanks to the winemakers and vineyard managers who took time to dine with us and share their stories. Special thanks to Erica Landon who tries to herd the cats.

I was lucky enough to share this experience with a few wine writers from the area. Read what they had to say.

NW Savory Characters
The Wine Snob

What if there is a buffet or you are simply bringing the wine as a hostess gift? You need a flexible, crowd pleasing wine that can pair with most foods or just a glass.  Here are a few we have tried this year that fit the bill.

Treveri Sparkling Rose. It is a bottle of alcoholic pink bubbles.  Do we need to say more?

Halter Ranch 2012 Cote de Paso blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre from Paso Robles California.- Full of red bramble fruits, bright acidity, and a long smooth finish.  This is a dream to pair with food. It is like your favorite pair of jeans – super comfy and goes with anything. Sample. Views are my own.

Most people like Zinfandel.  Because zinfandel grapes ripen unevenly there are usually some on the bunch that have dried to raisins. This makes a very fruity, high alcohol wine that seems a little sweet even when it isn’t.  For all of the fun with a little more restraint and sophistication consider Zenaida Cellars 2012 Zinfandel. It is nice enough to meet your parents but naughty enough to party.

Chehalem’s Riesling  – Oregon Riesling producers meet each February, before bottling, to sample each other’s Riesling in a blind, peer review.  This gives everyone the opportunity to tweak and optimize their wines before bottling.  In the forefront for quality, flavor, and approachable acidity – Chelahem makes a Riesling lover’s Riesling.  You won’t go wrong with any of their Riesling, but Corral Creek Vineyard from Chehalem Mountains AVA might be our favorite.

Sparkling wine is the “little black dress” of the wine world – a classic that never goes out of style. Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut – *found on sale at World Market for $12* is made in the traditional method.  This wine has the requisite characteristic yeasty flavors to bless your glass, but is subtle enough for sparkling cocktails.

On the topic of sparkling wines, we definitely recommend them as great gifts for the wine lover in your life.

Please comment and tell us your top choice for wine hostess gifts.  What is the best one you ever received?

Some samples were provided. Views are unbiased.

Tasting Pour is convinced Oregon Pinot noir is the perfect pairing for a traditional Thanksgiving meal. We have experimented with everything from Zinfandel to Sauvignon Blanc. If you like this lighter, elegant yet still fruity style of wine, it is the way to go. If you don’t like Pinot noir here are some other suggestions.  

Join us as we explore our cellar and determine the perfect wine for our table.  In the process you may determine the perfect wine to make you truly thankful.

More than some other regions in the US, vintage variation in Oregon makes a meaningful difference.

2011 – The Miracle Vintage

There are many 2011 Oregon Pinot noirs in our cellar.  This vintage is known as the “miracle” vintage in Oregon.  The spring was perfect weather so there were lots of flowers on the vines setting the vineyards up to produce a large crop.  A cool, cloudy summer followed.   It was not warm enough for even a normal sized crop to ripen, let alone this bumper crop of grapes. At one point the grapes were an entire month behind their usual ripening schedule. Vineyard managers and winemakers were biting their nails while the wine world looked on. 

An Indian Summer in August and September aided ripening but by October 3rd, Oregon had the lowest heat accumulation in decades. It was the latest harvest on record with most picking beginning after October 15th (two weeks later than usual) and still picking into early November.   If the expected autumn rains had come it could have spelled disaster.  Choices would have been to pick the grapes underripe or risk the mildew and disease brought by wetter weather. The “miracle” part of the story is the LACK of rain. The weather stayed dry and the grapes were awarded a long hang time – over 100 days – to finish ripening. The result were wines of lower alcohol but more elegance, surprising vivid color, and depth of flavor. A little tight in their youth, the 2011 Pinot noir will continue to develop in the bottle and drink like a dream in a few years. Think of these wines as the teenager with braces who will wow everyone in a few years at her debutante ball.

2012 – The Storybook Vintage

2012 Oregon Pinot noirs are a completely different story – complete with a “storybook ending” for winemakers.   The summer was dry and warm, but not too hot. Grapes reached full ripening with balanced acidity from cool nights.   The harvest was early and rains held off until mid-October. The resulting Pinot noirs are bigger, fruitier and more lush upon release.   These are not fruit bombs by any means – after all, this is Oregon.  They are Pinot noirs with ability to age, but are so pleasantly approachable in their youth – why wait.  Remember the kids in your class with great skin and a growth spurt that didn’t make them awkward? We are opting for the elegant yet rich Pinot noirs of 2012 for this Thanksgiving.

A Trip to the Cellar

From our cellar: J Wrigley’s 2012 Proposal Block from McMinnville AVA, Stoller Family Estate 2012 from Dundee Hills AVA; Durant Vineyards 2012 Bishop and 2012 Olivia Grace from Dundee Hills AVA; and one 2010 Youngberg Hill Barrel Select from Willamette Valley.  Disclaimer: some of these bottles were samples.

If ever there was a TastingPour “pro tip,” this is it:  When we visit a tasting room and try a wine, we start to think about potential food pairings.  We have been known to plan a full meal while just pondering a 1 ounce pouring of a wine.  This makes meal planning a breeze.

J Wrigley’s Proposal Block, named from a site in their vineyard where John proposed to Jody, is lush and full of very ripe red and dark fruits.  It is a dream in the glass or with a meal.  A little bit bigger than what we want with turkey, this one is earmarked for a pork dish with dried fruit compote. You may, however, prefer this style with turkey

Youngberg Hill’s Barrel Select is made from Wayne Bailey’s best barrels from his best sites in 2010. It is fully integrated and ready to drink. Complex layers of fruit and spice have married over the last few years in bottle. A long finish, a hint of vanilla, and all of the mouthwatering delight that comes with a well made wine allowed to reach a bit of maturity await in this bottle.  We have a lamb with a sweetened glaze in mind for this wine.  Although this wine would not disappoint your Thanksgiving guests.

Stoller Family Estates 2012, Durant Vineyards’ Olivia Grace, and Durant’s Bishop are all from Dundee Hills AVA. This area of Willamette Valley is known for elegant, delicate Pinot noirs with high notes of red cherry and pungent strains of white and black pepper.  Even in warmer years, they reveal more restraint.  For our palate, this is a wonderful compliment to the Thanksgiving meal.

We love a good story and especially one where the underdog comes out on top. Durant Vineyards’ Olivia Grace comes with a lovely tale. The wine is made from one vineyard block named for Paul Durant’s daughter.  It is planted on their coolest site with the youngest Pommard.  Terraced and facing true east, it receives less ripening sun.

Durant Vineyards matches winemakers with select vineyard blocks. No one was raising their hand to work with the Olivia Grace fruit and the Pinot noir was used for rose. That is until Chad Stock, Minimus Wines and Omero Cellars, accepted the challenge to coax an elegant Pinot noir from this site.   Anyone who has ever tasted with me knows I am the last one standing because I am the last one still spitting.  At a recent tasting dinner I not only drank the Olivia Grace at my seat but snuck the glass at the empty seat next to me.

We can only choose one wine for Thanksgiving Day, however, it is doubtful both the Durant Bishop and Stoller Family Estate will survive the weekend.  If we get behind, there is always Christmas.

Pairing Points:

1. Know your vintages.

2. Think about food pairings at tastings.

3. Be thankful you have food AND wine and make the most of any pairing.

Happy Thanksgiving and let us know the special bottle on your table.