He purchased his family’s second generation farm in 1983 – land once used partly for the largest turkey farm in Oregon.  Visiting with him in the vineyard he points across the property, “You see those silos over there.  Just beyond that is where I grew up.”  Maybe because of the family connection it is the vineyard that is closest to his heart.  “The soil has always felt closer than the chemistry.”

Bill recalls a summer when he was in the third grade.  He came home from Vacation Bible School and his father asked him to take the tractor and go harrow the lower field.  He had never pulled anything behind a tractor before and his dad offered no instruction.  “It was learning by doing and it really increased my confidence.”

He also remembers his uncle complaining about the rocks in the fields. “Maybe even at 15 or 16 I had an inkling this could be good vineyard soil.”

While visiting we got to taste the very first Stoller Chardonnay from 2001.  In the early years Stoller only sold fruit.  It was an amazing bottle that had developed beautifully demonstrating the fruit has always been stellar and the winemaking on track from the beginning.

Marking the 20 years is the addition of a second winemaking facility that will be ready in time for the 2015 vintage.  Stoller Family Estate has also begun keeping more of their fruit, a high demand commodity for other winemakers, for their own estate bottling.  Total production will increase to 32,000 cases.

Bill comments on the growth of the Oregon wine industry as a whole.  “The people in this business today, winemakers and oenologists, are so much smarter.  It is like Moore’s Law.  We have to double our speed every 2 years.”

Click here for a wine pairing and recipe with Stoller Family Estates 2013 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir.

Stoller Family Estates Pinot Noir and Summer Squash Salad

Wine pairing Weekend Assignment: Volcanic Soils.  In Oregon the state soil, jory, is a volcanic soil. Finding a wine from volcanic soil – easy.  Narrowing it down is another story.

We decided on Stoller Family Estate 2013 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir.  Dundee Hills AVA is often referred to as the “Red Hills of Dundee” because of the reddish volcanic soil.  Stoller’s 337 acre property with 195 acres planted to vine is the largest contiguous vineyard in the Dundee Hills.

“Red” Jory Soils photo courtesy of Enobytes Wine Online

 

We visited Stoller to help celebrate their 20 year anniversary.  Bill Stoller shared wines from his own collection and lunch was catered by Nick’s Italian Cafe in McMinnville.  Our favorite dish was a summer squash and bread salad topped with a poached egg.  We tried to figure out the recipe and then  just called Nick’s on the off chance they would share it.  And they did!  Well sort of.  A list of ingredients without measurements and vague instructions involving a wood oven – which we don’t have.  Oddly the person we spoke with asked not to be named.  Did we get a secret recipe?

Matters not because our version tasted 100% different from Nick’s.  It was still awesome and a great use for a bumper crop of squash.  We will make it again and again.

The 2013 vintage in the Willamette Valley is known as a “winemaker’s vintage.”  A perfect spring and summer pointed to a high yield, ripe fruit repeat of 2012.  A deluge of rain came in the 3rd week of September.  Some winemakers picked early while some took their chances on ripeness over rot.  In the end the skill of the winemaker was crucial to coaxing the best out of 2013 fruit.

It may seem strange to pair a red wine with this salad.  Indeed, we believe this dish could go with a wide range of acid driven wines with full fruit profiles – Gamay, unoaked Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, etc..  When we tasted the original dish it was paired expertly with a range of red wines from the 1980’s and 1990’s and we considered our pairing a success.

We firmly believe it is impossible to grill without a cold beverage.  Not only for the grill(er) but guests awaiting the main course also need to quench their thirst.  Beer is a great choice and one we have made many, many times.  If you want to serve a wine that everyone can enjoy paired with just about any appetizer, opt for a dry rose.  Our favorite rose this summer has been Stoller’s Rose of Pinot Noir.  It is pretty, watermelon(y) and delicious fun in the glass.  In these hot summer days, it has reached 100 in the Willamette Valley in June y’all, we think we could polish off a bottle a day.

Pinot noir and lamb are a classic pairing. People often equate Pinot noir with a more delicate flavor profile and seek something sturdier and frankly more approachable for burgers.  Ahh, but have you had a 2012 Pinot noir from Willamette Valley?  I know some are still on the shelves.  This was a warm, dry perfect year. The wines are lush, ripe, and juicy – like you landed in a berry patch without any thorns.

We attended an event recently called Pinot 365.  It was a tasting from wineries who are open 365 days a year.  Well, not literally. We were upset when we thought folks were working on Christmas. These are wineries that don’t close their tasting rooms in winter.  We stocked the H E Double Hockey Sticks up on fun 2012 Pinot noir.  Among the bottles that we adopted and gave a home to were 2012 Willamette Valley Pinot noir from Rex Hill, Ponzi, and Montinore Estate. Please note these are not the higher priced vineyard designates or reserve wines.  While those are always special, as are our burgers, we are talking about a casual meal.  Plus 2012 offered fabulously approachable wines at all price points.

We don’t think you could go wrong with a 2012 Willamette Valley Pinot noir. Of the ones we purchased the Van Duzer Vineyards was probably the most decadent.  We are not suckers for pretty labels but when they adorn bottles of pretty wine we are on board.  Look for a future article on Van Duzer. This wine is the only one that is available outside their wine club.  Really makes us curious about what we cannot have, so we are planning a visit soon.

This team not only serves up great food, but also recommends wines to pair.  Sean Martin is Ember and wife Mary Cressler is Vine.  Mary is a fellow wine writer and sommelier.  Mary puts her two cents worth into recipe creation as well. Mary explains, “Sean will tell you he’s a meat guy and I’m the health nut.  I’m the backbone of everything that isn’t 100% meat based. Don’t ask me to smoke a chicken though because I’m 99% certain I’ll overcook it!”

For my Southern readers, folks out here say they are going to BBQ, when they really mean they are going to grill steaks or burgers.  We had to check and sure enough Ember and Vine are doing it right.

Sean and Mary have been building their catering business for a while. The first time we met Mary she was talking about BBQ.   The first time we met Sean was on a press trip where he was concocting salsa, MacGyver style, from random ingredients at our guest house.

They recently began to receive the recognition they deserve, starting with a first place win in the Traeger grilling competition – Meat Madness.  Their Smoked Brisket Nachos, with ingredients like beer and leftover coffee, stole the show.  Mary, “We chose this recipe because it was a delicious creation and we totally believed in the recipe and its potential.”

Last weekend Phelps Creek Vineyards in the Columbia Gorge celebrated the win with a Nachos and Syrah Party.  Phelps Creek is one of our FAVORITE wineries in the Gorge, and really in Oregon.  The first time we had Sean’s pork loin it was enough to make Jade not only stop talking, but possibly make an embarrassing moan.  A two hour drive was nothing to catch this food and wine combo.

Okay wine lover’s this part’s for you.  Phelps Creek served up the perfect wines for an outdoor party on a hot day. In the new release category were Fleur de Roy 2014, Rose of Pinot Noir; Celilo Gewurztraminer 2014; and Le Petit Pinot Noir 2014.  A glass of something dry and pink is always a summer fave.  We are not normally big fans of Gewurzt.  They are fun to smell but often lack acidity and taste too perfumey.  You can count on your fingers the ones we have liked – a few from the classic region of Alsace and this one from Phelps Creek.  It was floral, spicy and fruity while maintaining the refreshing balance you want in a summer white.

The Le Petit was a kicker – a Pinot noir made like a Beaujolais , with carbonic maceration.  It had all of the fun flavors you want from a quality Beaujolais with the classic flavors of Pinot noir.  To buy wine, visit Phelps Creek or order online.

Of course the selected pairing of the day was Phelps Creek Syrah with the Smoked Brisket Nachos. Dark, rich fruit complemented the smoky, tangy brisket.

Okay Oregon BBQ lovers back to you.

If you missed the nacho party it isn’t too late.  Ember and Vine will be teaming up with Barrel 47 to do pulled pork sandwiches and chorizo verde smoked sausage links at Porklandia June 20th in Carlton.  They also will hold one of the coveted spots at Counter Culture July 22 at Anne Amie Vineyards.  The website for Ember and Vine is under construction. Follow their Facebook page and visit Vindulge for recipe, tips, and wine pairings.

You are not standing in an ancient Romanesque structure. You haven’t even left Oregon.  You are in Oregon City.  It is not a land of magic, but it is a dream.  It is the dream of Burl and Cindy Mostul and it is called Villa Catalana Cellars.

We discovered the place that elves and fairies must go to taste wine. Read the rest of the story in the Oregon Wine Press.

Some samples were provided. Views are unbiased.

Tasting Pour is convinced Oregon Pinot noir is the perfect pairing for a traditional Thanksgiving meal. We have experimented with everything from Zinfandel to Sauvignon Blanc. If you like this lighter, elegant yet still fruity style of wine, it is the way to go. If you don’t like Pinot noir here are some other suggestions.  

Join us as we explore our cellar and determine the perfect wine for our table.  In the process you may determine the perfect wine to make you truly thankful.

More than some other regions in the US, vintage variation in Oregon makes a meaningful difference.

2011 – The Miracle Vintage

There are many 2011 Oregon Pinot noirs in our cellar.  This vintage is known as the “miracle” vintage in Oregon.  The spring was perfect weather so there were lots of flowers on the vines setting the vineyards up to produce a large crop.  A cool, cloudy summer followed.   It was not warm enough for even a normal sized crop to ripen, let alone this bumper crop of grapes. At one point the grapes were an entire month behind their usual ripening schedule. Vineyard managers and winemakers were biting their nails while the wine world looked on. 

An Indian Summer in August and September aided ripening but by October 3rd, Oregon had the lowest heat accumulation in decades. It was the latest harvest on record with most picking beginning after October 15th (two weeks later than usual) and still picking into early November.   If the expected autumn rains had come it could have spelled disaster.  Choices would have been to pick the grapes underripe or risk the mildew and disease brought by wetter weather. The “miracle” part of the story is the LACK of rain. The weather stayed dry and the grapes were awarded a long hang time – over 100 days – to finish ripening. The result were wines of lower alcohol but more elegance, surprising vivid color, and depth of flavor. A little tight in their youth, the 2011 Pinot noir will continue to develop in the bottle and drink like a dream in a few years. Think of these wines as the teenager with braces who will wow everyone in a few years at her debutante ball.

2012 – The Storybook Vintage

2012 Oregon Pinot noirs are a completely different story – complete with a “storybook ending” for winemakers.   The summer was dry and warm, but not too hot. Grapes reached full ripening with balanced acidity from cool nights.   The harvest was early and rains held off until mid-October. The resulting Pinot noirs are bigger, fruitier and more lush upon release.   These are not fruit bombs by any means – after all, this is Oregon.  They are Pinot noirs with ability to age, but are so pleasantly approachable in their youth – why wait.  Remember the kids in your class with great skin and a growth spurt that didn’t make them awkward? We are opting for the elegant yet rich Pinot noirs of 2012 for this Thanksgiving.

A Trip to the Cellar

From our cellar: J Wrigley’s 2012 Proposal Block from McMinnville AVA, Stoller Family Estate 2012 from Dundee Hills AVA; Durant Vineyards 2012 Bishop and 2012 Olivia Grace from Dundee Hills AVA; and one 2010 Youngberg Hill Barrel Select from Willamette Valley.  Disclaimer: some of these bottles were samples.

If ever there was a TastingPour “pro tip,” this is it:  When we visit a tasting room and try a wine, we start to think about potential food pairings.  We have been known to plan a full meal while just pondering a 1 ounce pouring of a wine.  This makes meal planning a breeze.

J Wrigley’s Proposal Block, named from a site in their vineyard where John proposed to Jody, is lush and full of very ripe red and dark fruits.  It is a dream in the glass or with a meal.  A little bit bigger than what we want with turkey, this one is earmarked for a pork dish with dried fruit compote. You may, however, prefer this style with turkey

Youngberg Hill’s Barrel Select is made from Wayne Bailey’s best barrels from his best sites in 2010. It is fully integrated and ready to drink. Complex layers of fruit and spice have married over the last few years in bottle. A long finish, a hint of vanilla, and all of the mouthwatering delight that comes with a well made wine allowed to reach a bit of maturity await in this bottle.  We have a lamb with a sweetened glaze in mind for this wine.  Although this wine would not disappoint your Thanksgiving guests.

Stoller Family Estates 2012, Durant Vineyards’ Olivia Grace, and Durant’s Bishop are all from Dundee Hills AVA. This area of Willamette Valley is known for elegant, delicate Pinot noirs with high notes of red cherry and pungent strains of white and black pepper.  Even in warmer years, they reveal more restraint.  For our palate, this is a wonderful compliment to the Thanksgiving meal.

We love a good story and especially one where the underdog comes out on top. Durant Vineyards’ Olivia Grace comes with a lovely tale. The wine is made from one vineyard block named for Paul Durant’s daughter.  It is planted on their coolest site with the youngest Pommard.  Terraced and facing true east, it receives less ripening sun.

Durant Vineyards matches winemakers with select vineyard blocks. No one was raising their hand to work with the Olivia Grace fruit and the Pinot noir was used for rose. That is until Chad Stock, Minimus Wines and Omero Cellars, accepted the challenge to coax an elegant Pinot noir from this site.   Anyone who has ever tasted with me knows I am the last one standing because I am the last one still spitting.  At a recent tasting dinner I not only drank the Olivia Grace at my seat but snuck the glass at the empty seat next to me.

We can only choose one wine for Thanksgiving Day, however, it is doubtful both the Durant Bishop and Stoller Family Estate will survive the weekend.  If we get behind, there is always Christmas.

Pairing Points:

1. Know your vintages.

2. Think about food pairings at tastings.

3. Be thankful you have food AND wine and make the most of any pairing.

Happy Thanksgiving and let us know the special bottle on your table.

We get just as excited about the leftovers, however, as we do about the main event.  Any year we have been graciously invited to celebrate with friends, we feel a little sad for just one day of turkey. That does not mean we don’t want a little variety.

This stylish and frugal presentation of leftovers deserves a wine that will make you thankful.  The buttery sauce, fresh herbs, and depth of flavor from dark turkey meat requires a wine full of subtle fruit, full body, balanced acidity, and rich texture.  We recommend a lightly oaked, cooler climate Chardonnay like Boedecker Cellars.  Boedecker Cellars is owned and operated by husband and wife team Stewart and Athena Boedecker.  Making only 6500 cases a year, they produce excellent hand crafted wines. The winery is in Portland and  grapes are sourced from vineyards in nearby Willamette Valley.  Vineyards include well known sites such as Stoller and Shea.

We had the pleasure of tasting their wines for the first time at the Oregon premier of American Wine Story, in which the couple was featured.  Mark got to the table first and said, “You have to taste this wine.”  We enjoyed both their Pinot noir and Chardonnay and have looked forward to sharing our discovery.

If you want to pair a Pinot noir with this meal, you won’t be disappointed by Boedecker Cellars. Stewart and Athena each prefer different styles of Pinot noir.  Stewart is drawn to the classic Willamette Valley style of elegant red fruits, while Athena prefers a bigger Pinot with darker fruits, earth and spice.  These passionate winemakers will have something that suits your fancy.

We chose to concentrate on Chardonnay for this pairing.   Fewer realize the Willamette Valley is just as well suited to this other Burgundian varietal.  Many Oregon Chardonnay producers are crafting their wines with some oak influence for texture.  This Chardonnay from Boedecker was fermented in neutral French oak.  It is full bodied and rich with a silky texture and flavors of ripe banana and pear. This was a great pairing for the hardy, creamy flaky pot pie.  For a more delicate Chardonnay, usually our preference, Boedecker’s Purity Chardonnay delivers fruity, floral elegance.