2014 was a turning point for me, but not only because of unused vintage stickers.  I received a sample of unfiltered Arbequina olive oil from the Oregon Olive Mill at Red Ridge Farms.  Unfiltered olive oil still contains teeny tiny bits of olive flesh.  Aficionados geek out over the extra texture and flavor. As with most products of limited availability, this olive oil is considered something quite special to be savored.  Just the sort of thing I would save for a special occasion and then wind up never using. Here is the clincher… It only has a shelf life of 3-6 months.  You HAVE to use it up!

So I bit the bullet, opened the bottle, and began pouring it  It has been drizzled on browned brussel sprouts, hummus, delicata squash risotto, roasted cauliflower, focaccia – just about everything really.  Weeknight dishes, even leftovers, have been deemed worthy.  This little bottle of peppery joy was passed around the table almost every night.  We opened it Thanksgiving.  It did not see Christmas.

Life is too short for generic, flavorless mass produced olive oil.  I learned from Libby Clow, Olive Oil Program Ambassador at Red Ridge Farms, that a fresh lively olive oil will have layers of flavor and character, just like wine, and will have a peppery finish. You don’t have to use unfiltered olive oil.  A quality extra virgin olive oil packs in flavor and lasts 2 years from the bottling date.  She taught me tons about olive oil actually.  Click here if you missed that post.  If your olive oil lacks zest it isn’t adding anything but oiliness to your food. Treat yourself to good olive oil, good wine and good food.  Share them with those you love and have a very Happy New Year!

On a recent visit to the Oregon Olive Mill and Durant Vineyards at Red Ridge Farms we were delighted to learn there is a fun technique to olive oil tasting, not unlike wine tasting.  Libby Clow, Olive Oil Program Ambassador, explained the steps.

1. Appearance – Unlike wine tasting, olive oil tasting is done in blue opaque glasses.  The color doesn’t give hints about the taste but can result in misleading preconceptions. For instance a very green olive oil may taste more buttery than grassy.

2. Don’t swirl it, heat it up – Just like wine releases aromas when it interacts with air, olive oil “opens up” with heat.  Think about how much stronger olive oil smells when it hits a hot skillet or when drizzled over steamy vegetables. We placed our stemless glasses in our palms, covered with our other palm, and twisted back and forth to warm the oil.

Combining olives at different stages of ripeness adds peppery spice and buttery texture

 

3. Sniff  – Here is where wine tasting and olive oil tasting begin to intersect.  While wine professionals describe aromas in terms of tree fruits, stone fruits, earth, etc. Olive oil experts are looking for aromas and flavors in three categories: fruit, bitterness, and pungency.

4. Slurp – Yes we DRANK our olive oil!  Just a sip and then we drew air into our mouths just like wine tasting.  We discovered fruity and floral flavors like apple, avocado, chamomile; bitterness like walnut skin and arugula; and pungency like black pepper and jalapeno.

If you try these steps, and you can for free at Oregon Olive Mill, you might find yourself coughing at the end.  According to Clow, the pepperiness in the back of your throat is an indication that the oil is still lively.  This is an individual response and can be more pronounced for some people.

How to Buy

Quality olive oils are often made with just one type of olive and it will be listed on the label just like a wine label lists “chardonnay.”  At Oregon Olive Mill we tasted Arbequina, Frantoio, and Koroneiki. Labels often list  harvest and bottling dates.  Filtered oils have a shelf life of 2 years.  Once opened expect them to stay fresh about 6 months.  Just like wine, they should be stored in a cool, dark place. A kitchen cabinet away from the stove and fridge is a good place to keep olive oil.

How to Use

Olive oil doesn’t just keep your cast iron happy.  It can add flavors and textures to your dish. What about adding an oil with flavors of orange peel and a buttery texture to a crisp arugula salad?For our tasting, simply prepared foods were drizzled with various olive oils.  Frantoio, buttery textured with flavors of celery leaf, was lively enough for roasted potatoes and subtle enough for cheddar cheese.  Tuscan, the only olive oil we tasted made from a mix of olives, was versatile enough for both salami and brussel sprouts. Arbequina, had a creamy avocado texture, flavors of bitter almond and green banana.  It was a great addition to roasted beets. Koroneiki had the most tannin, viscosity, and depth of flavor.  A popular olive oil for meats, it was drizzled on poached chicken.

While our lunch was not huge or heavy, we found it very satisfying.  Score one for good fats.  We even had olive oil and espresso salt on ice cream (yummier than you think.)  For those with special dietary needs, get ready for chocolate chip cookies with olive oil instead of butter.  We like our butter, but these were really good and the recipe is at the end of this article
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Ever heard you are not supposed to cook with olive oil at high temperatures because it is toxic?  According to Clow this is a myth perpetuated by the producers of other cooking fats.  It is true olive oil has a  lower smoke point (420 vs 450 for canola oil) but the only danger is a little decrease in flavor.  Fine olive oil is packed with more flavor and health giving properties than any mass produced canola oil.

How to Simplify

Most of us are not going to have an arsenal of oils for different dishes.  If you do, please invite Tasting Pour over.  We will bring wine.  Choosing olive oil is like choosing wine.  Find a quality product you like and it will be a good pairing.

Libby Clow garnishes lunch with Oregon Olive Mill’s tempting oils

How to Learn More

Red Ridge Farms, owned and operated by the Durant family, includes the Oregon Olive Mill and Durant Vineyards on one property.  If you are lucky enough to live in Oregon or are planning a visit, we highly recommend adding this to your list.  The vineyards, first planted in 1973, are part of Oregon’s wine history.  This is also the state’s first commercial olive mill.   In 2000 the family added a destination nursery and began experimenting with olives, planting their grove in 2005.  Paul Durant explains that being an Oregon olive pioneer results in similar challenges to being an Oregon wine pioneer.  “There is a lot of trial and error and the learning curve is long because olive trees grow slowly.”  Paul’s father, Ken Durant, planted the first grapes at Durant Vineyards 42 years ago.  He remembers, “The first five years people were planting the wrong clones.”  He relates these challenges to learning about growing olives.Because Oregon Olive Mill is the only commercial mill in the state, the Durants get to cooperate and share tips with the few other Oregon olive producers.  UC Davis has proved a valuable resource and the California olive industry as a whole has been supportive.  Paul Durant explains, “We have the mobile number for California Olive Ranch’s Head Miller and we can call any time.” Ken Durant shares, “There is a mystique and curiosity about olives in Oregon, but we will make it.  We are making it.”

Oh the places you can go at Red Ridge Farms

Guests get to enjoy the fruits of the Durant family’s labor.   Visitors walk through the green house and nursery running their fingers through the various scented mints and lavender.  Olive oil tastings are free and so are olive mill tours with a reservation.  The gift shop is an inviting space with many products based on honey, lavender, and of course olive oil.  Outdoor seating is located by the gift shop and outside the wine tasting room.  If we could only take guests to one vineyard in Dundee Hills this is the one we would choose. Our parents, who don’t drink, recently visited.  They loved the views, nursery, gift shop and olive oil.  There is something for everyone.  For those who do  imbibe, the wine is not to be missed.  For more information on Durant Vineyards wines Farming Comes First at Durant Vineyards.  For more information on wine and olive oil tastings visit Red Ridge Farms.

Have you found a fabulous olive oil?  Tell us about it. Oh, and here is the cookie recipe as promised.