He purchased his family’s second generation farm in 1983 – land once used partly for the largest turkey farm in Oregon.  Visiting with him in the vineyard he points across the property, “You see those silos over there.  Just beyond that is where I grew up.”  Maybe because of the family connection it is the vineyard that is closest to his heart.  “The soil has always felt closer than the chemistry.”

Bill recalls a summer when he was in the third grade.  He came home from Vacation Bible School and his father asked him to take the tractor and go harrow the lower field.  He had never pulled anything behind a tractor before and his dad offered no instruction.  “It was learning by doing and it really increased my confidence.”

He also remembers his uncle complaining about the rocks in the fields. “Maybe even at 15 or 16 I had an inkling this could be good vineyard soil.”

While visiting we got to taste the very first Stoller Chardonnay from 2001.  In the early years Stoller only sold fruit.  It was an amazing bottle that had developed beautifully demonstrating the fruit has always been stellar and the winemaking on track from the beginning.

Marking the 20 years is the addition of a second winemaking facility that will be ready in time for the 2015 vintage.  Stoller Family Estate has also begun keeping more of their fruit, a high demand commodity for other winemakers, for their own estate bottling.  Total production will increase to 32,000 cases.

Bill comments on the growth of the Oregon wine industry as a whole.  “The people in this business today, winemakers and oenologists, are so much smarter.  It is like Moore’s Law.  We have to double our speed every 2 years.”

Click here for a wine pairing and recipe with Stoller Family Estates 2013 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir.

Stoller Family Estates Pinot Noir and Summer Squash Salad

Wine pairing Weekend Assignment: Volcanic Soils.  In Oregon the state soil, jory, is a volcanic soil. Finding a wine from volcanic soil – easy.  Narrowing it down is another story.

We decided on Stoller Family Estate 2013 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir.  Dundee Hills AVA is often referred to as the “Red Hills of Dundee” because of the reddish volcanic soil.  Stoller’s 337 acre property with 195 acres planted to vine is the largest contiguous vineyard in the Dundee Hills.

“Red” Jory Soils photo courtesy of Enobytes Wine Online

 

We visited Stoller to help celebrate their 20 year anniversary.  Bill Stoller shared wines from his own collection and lunch was catered by Nick’s Italian Cafe in McMinnville.  Our favorite dish was a summer squash and bread salad topped with a poached egg.  We tried to figure out the recipe and then  just called Nick’s on the off chance they would share it.  And they did!  Well sort of.  A list of ingredients without measurements and vague instructions involving a wood oven – which we don’t have.  Oddly the person we spoke with asked not to be named.  Did we get a secret recipe?

Matters not because our version tasted 100% different from Nick’s.  It was still awesome and a great use for a bumper crop of squash.  We will make it again and again.

The 2013 vintage in the Willamette Valley is known as a “winemaker’s vintage.”  A perfect spring and summer pointed to a high yield, ripe fruit repeat of 2012.  A deluge of rain came in the 3rd week of September.  Some winemakers picked early while some took their chances on ripeness over rot.  In the end the skill of the winemaker was crucial to coaxing the best out of 2013 fruit.

It may seem strange to pair a red wine with this salad.  Indeed, we believe this dish could go with a wide range of acid driven wines with full fruit profiles – Gamay, unoaked Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, etc..  When we tasted the original dish it was paired expertly with a range of red wines from the 1980’s and 1990’s and we considered our pairing a success.

Some samples were provided. Views are unbiased.

Tasting Pour is convinced Oregon Pinot noir is the perfect pairing for a traditional Thanksgiving meal. We have experimented with everything from Zinfandel to Sauvignon Blanc. If you like this lighter, elegant yet still fruity style of wine, it is the way to go. If you don’t like Pinot noir here are some other suggestions.  

Join us as we explore our cellar and determine the perfect wine for our table.  In the process you may determine the perfect wine to make you truly thankful.

More than some other regions in the US, vintage variation in Oregon makes a meaningful difference.

2011 – The Miracle Vintage

There are many 2011 Oregon Pinot noirs in our cellar.  This vintage is known as the “miracle” vintage in Oregon.  The spring was perfect weather so there were lots of flowers on the vines setting the vineyards up to produce a large crop.  A cool, cloudy summer followed.   It was not warm enough for even a normal sized crop to ripen, let alone this bumper crop of grapes. At one point the grapes were an entire month behind their usual ripening schedule. Vineyard managers and winemakers were biting their nails while the wine world looked on. 

An Indian Summer in August and September aided ripening but by October 3rd, Oregon had the lowest heat accumulation in decades. It was the latest harvest on record with most picking beginning after October 15th (two weeks later than usual) and still picking into early November.   If the expected autumn rains had come it could have spelled disaster.  Choices would have been to pick the grapes underripe or risk the mildew and disease brought by wetter weather. The “miracle” part of the story is the LACK of rain. The weather stayed dry and the grapes were awarded a long hang time – over 100 days – to finish ripening. The result were wines of lower alcohol but more elegance, surprising vivid color, and depth of flavor. A little tight in their youth, the 2011 Pinot noir will continue to develop in the bottle and drink like a dream in a few years. Think of these wines as the teenager with braces who will wow everyone in a few years at her debutante ball.

2012 – The Storybook Vintage

2012 Oregon Pinot noirs are a completely different story – complete with a “storybook ending” for winemakers.   The summer was dry and warm, but not too hot. Grapes reached full ripening with balanced acidity from cool nights.   The harvest was early and rains held off until mid-October. The resulting Pinot noirs are bigger, fruitier and more lush upon release.   These are not fruit bombs by any means – after all, this is Oregon.  They are Pinot noirs with ability to age, but are so pleasantly approachable in their youth – why wait.  Remember the kids in your class with great skin and a growth spurt that didn’t make them awkward? We are opting for the elegant yet rich Pinot noirs of 2012 for this Thanksgiving.

A Trip to the Cellar

From our cellar: J Wrigley’s 2012 Proposal Block from McMinnville AVA, Stoller Family Estate 2012 from Dundee Hills AVA; Durant Vineyards 2012 Bishop and 2012 Olivia Grace from Dundee Hills AVA; and one 2010 Youngberg Hill Barrel Select from Willamette Valley.  Disclaimer: some of these bottles were samples.

If ever there was a TastingPour “pro tip,” this is it:  When we visit a tasting room and try a wine, we start to think about potential food pairings.  We have been known to plan a full meal while just pondering a 1 ounce pouring of a wine.  This makes meal planning a breeze.

J Wrigley’s Proposal Block, named from a site in their vineyard where John proposed to Jody, is lush and full of very ripe red and dark fruits.  It is a dream in the glass or with a meal.  A little bit bigger than what we want with turkey, this one is earmarked for a pork dish with dried fruit compote. You may, however, prefer this style with turkey

Youngberg Hill’s Barrel Select is made from Wayne Bailey’s best barrels from his best sites in 2010. It is fully integrated and ready to drink. Complex layers of fruit and spice have married over the last few years in bottle. A long finish, a hint of vanilla, and all of the mouthwatering delight that comes with a well made wine allowed to reach a bit of maturity await in this bottle.  We have a lamb with a sweetened glaze in mind for this wine.  Although this wine would not disappoint your Thanksgiving guests.

Stoller Family Estates 2012, Durant Vineyards’ Olivia Grace, and Durant’s Bishop are all from Dundee Hills AVA. This area of Willamette Valley is known for elegant, delicate Pinot noirs with high notes of red cherry and pungent strains of white and black pepper.  Even in warmer years, they reveal more restraint.  For our palate, this is a wonderful compliment to the Thanksgiving meal.

We love a good story and especially one where the underdog comes out on top. Durant Vineyards’ Olivia Grace comes with a lovely tale. The wine is made from one vineyard block named for Paul Durant’s daughter.  It is planted on their coolest site with the youngest Pommard.  Terraced and facing true east, it receives less ripening sun.

Durant Vineyards matches winemakers with select vineyard blocks. No one was raising their hand to work with the Olivia Grace fruit and the Pinot noir was used for rose. That is until Chad Stock, Minimus Wines and Omero Cellars, accepted the challenge to coax an elegant Pinot noir from this site.   Anyone who has ever tasted with me knows I am the last one standing because I am the last one still spitting.  At a recent tasting dinner I not only drank the Olivia Grace at my seat but snuck the glass at the empty seat next to me.

We can only choose one wine for Thanksgiving Day, however, it is doubtful both the Durant Bishop and Stoller Family Estate will survive the weekend.  If we get behind, there is always Christmas.

Pairing Points:

1. Know your vintages.

2. Think about food pairings at tastings.

3. Be thankful you have food AND wine and make the most of any pairing.

Happy Thanksgiving and let us know the special bottle on your table.

On a recent visit to the Oregon Olive Mill and Durant Vineyards at Red Ridge Farms we were delighted to learn there is a fun technique to olive oil tasting, not unlike wine tasting.  Libby Clow, Olive Oil Program Ambassador, explained the steps.

1. Appearance – Unlike wine tasting, olive oil tasting is done in blue opaque glasses.  The color doesn’t give hints about the taste but can result in misleading preconceptions. For instance a very green olive oil may taste more buttery than grassy.

2. Don’t swirl it, heat it up – Just like wine releases aromas when it interacts with air, olive oil “opens up” with heat.  Think about how much stronger olive oil smells when it hits a hot skillet or when drizzled over steamy vegetables. We placed our stemless glasses in our palms, covered with our other palm, and twisted back and forth to warm the oil.

Combining olives at different stages of ripeness adds peppery spice and buttery texture

 

3. Sniff  – Here is where wine tasting and olive oil tasting begin to intersect.  While wine professionals describe aromas in terms of tree fruits, stone fruits, earth, etc. Olive oil experts are looking for aromas and flavors in three categories: fruit, bitterness, and pungency.

4. Slurp – Yes we DRANK our olive oil!  Just a sip and then we drew air into our mouths just like wine tasting.  We discovered fruity and floral flavors like apple, avocado, chamomile; bitterness like walnut skin and arugula; and pungency like black pepper and jalapeno.

If you try these steps, and you can for free at Oregon Olive Mill, you might find yourself coughing at the end.  According to Clow, the pepperiness in the back of your throat is an indication that the oil is still lively.  This is an individual response and can be more pronounced for some people.

How to Buy

Quality olive oils are often made with just one type of olive and it will be listed on the label just like a wine label lists “chardonnay.”  At Oregon Olive Mill we tasted Arbequina, Frantoio, and Koroneiki. Labels often list  harvest and bottling dates.  Filtered oils have a shelf life of 2 years.  Once opened expect them to stay fresh about 6 months.  Just like wine, they should be stored in a cool, dark place. A kitchen cabinet away from the stove and fridge is a good place to keep olive oil.

How to Use

Olive oil doesn’t just keep your cast iron happy.  It can add flavors and textures to your dish. What about adding an oil with flavors of orange peel and a buttery texture to a crisp arugula salad?For our tasting, simply prepared foods were drizzled with various olive oils.  Frantoio, buttery textured with flavors of celery leaf, was lively enough for roasted potatoes and subtle enough for cheddar cheese.  Tuscan, the only olive oil we tasted made from a mix of olives, was versatile enough for both salami and brussel sprouts. Arbequina, had a creamy avocado texture, flavors of bitter almond and green banana.  It was a great addition to roasted beets. Koroneiki had the most tannin, viscosity, and depth of flavor.  A popular olive oil for meats, it was drizzled on poached chicken.

While our lunch was not huge or heavy, we found it very satisfying.  Score one for good fats.  We even had olive oil and espresso salt on ice cream (yummier than you think.)  For those with special dietary needs, get ready for chocolate chip cookies with olive oil instead of butter.  We like our butter, but these were really good and the recipe is at the end of this article
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Ever heard you are not supposed to cook with olive oil at high temperatures because it is toxic?  According to Clow this is a myth perpetuated by the producers of other cooking fats.  It is true olive oil has a  lower smoke point (420 vs 450 for canola oil) but the only danger is a little decrease in flavor.  Fine olive oil is packed with more flavor and health giving properties than any mass produced canola oil.

How to Simplify

Most of us are not going to have an arsenal of oils for different dishes.  If you do, please invite Tasting Pour over.  We will bring wine.  Choosing olive oil is like choosing wine.  Find a quality product you like and it will be a good pairing.

Libby Clow garnishes lunch with Oregon Olive Mill’s tempting oils

How to Learn More

Red Ridge Farms, owned and operated by the Durant family, includes the Oregon Olive Mill and Durant Vineyards on one property.  If you are lucky enough to live in Oregon or are planning a visit, we highly recommend adding this to your list.  The vineyards, first planted in 1973, are part of Oregon’s wine history.  This is also the state’s first commercial olive mill.   In 2000 the family added a destination nursery and began experimenting with olives, planting their grove in 2005.  Paul Durant explains that being an Oregon olive pioneer results in similar challenges to being an Oregon wine pioneer.  “There is a lot of trial and error and the learning curve is long because olive trees grow slowly.”  Paul’s father, Ken Durant, planted the first grapes at Durant Vineyards 42 years ago.  He remembers, “The first five years people were planting the wrong clones.”  He relates these challenges to learning about growing olives.Because Oregon Olive Mill is the only commercial mill in the state, the Durants get to cooperate and share tips with the few other Oregon olive producers.  UC Davis has proved a valuable resource and the California olive industry as a whole has been supportive.  Paul Durant explains, “We have the mobile number for California Olive Ranch’s Head Miller and we can call any time.” Ken Durant shares, “There is a mystique and curiosity about olives in Oregon, but we will make it.  We are making it.”

Oh the places you can go at Red Ridge Farms

Guests get to enjoy the fruits of the Durant family’s labor.   Visitors walk through the green house and nursery running their fingers through the various scented mints and lavender.  Olive oil tastings are free and so are olive mill tours with a reservation.  The gift shop is an inviting space with many products based on honey, lavender, and of course olive oil.  Outdoor seating is located by the gift shop and outside the wine tasting room.  If we could only take guests to one vineyard in Dundee Hills this is the one we would choose. Our parents, who don’t drink, recently visited.  They loved the views, nursery, gift shop and olive oil.  There is something for everyone.  For those who do  imbibe, the wine is not to be missed.  For more information on Durant Vineyards wines Farming Comes First at Durant Vineyards.  For more information on wine and olive oil tastings visit Red Ridge Farms.

Have you found a fabulous olive oil?  Tell us about it. Oh, and here is the cookie recipe as promised.

 

In 2003 the Durants decided to make wine under their own label. With 30 years of grape growing experience under their belts they knew they should stick to their knitting, but they also knew they had something special to showcase. Paul Durant explains, “We have a passion for farming and we want to show that through the wine.” The Durants wanted wines that told the story and showed the personality of the individual vineyard blocks. The Durant vineyard includes blocks at three distinct elevations: higher sites at 600 feet with predominantly Jory soil; middle sites with rocky Jory soils; and lower elevations composed of Woodburn and Jory soils. The family’s original Bishop block, planted in 1973 still contains significant amounts of ungrafted vines. “I planted some of those blocks myself. I don’t want them blended into a homogeneous Durant wine,” explains Paul Durant.  The solution – match vineyard blocks with six hand selected winemakers.

Because the Durants have such a long history in the Oregon wine industry, these matches occurred organically.  Isabelle Dutartre, 1789 Wines and De Ponte Cellars, has a 20+ year relationship with the Durant family.  When the opportunity arose for Dutartre to craft the Raven Chardonnay and Bishop Pinot noir the sentiment from both parties was “Hell yes, let’s make some wine.”

Marcus Goodfellow, Matello Wines, encountered Durant fruit through Dean Fisher at Adea Winery.   “Dean always wanted Durant fruit for Adea.” In 2009 Goodfellow jumped at the chance for fruit from Durant’s Bishop and Heron blocks. “The Durant family have been farming [vineyards] since I was five.” Goodfellow was eager to work with such experienced and knowledgeable farmers.  In addition to his own wines, including Matello Durant Vineyard Chardonnay, Goodfellow crafts Heron Pinot noir for the Durant label.

Chad Stock, Minimus Wines and Omero Cellars, was recommended by Master Sommelier Nate Ready as a winemaker with “attention to detail.” Stock works with the Olivia Grace block.  This is the coolest of Durant’s vineyard blocks and planted with the youngest Pommard. Terraced and facing true east, it receives less ripening sun.  Before Stock’s influence these grapes were used for rose. His 2012 Durant Vineyards Olivia Grace Pinot noir is fresh and floral with darker fruits.

Each winemaker has an individual style and philosophy that leaves a thumbprint on the wine.  Dutartre feels that a relationship with the vineyard site takes several years to develop.”I have stopped working with some vineyards because we were just not meant to be together.” She refers to the finished wines as her “babies” explaining that wines are like kids and need to go through stages.  “My wine making style is ‘lazy.’ I respect the fruit and try not to extract too much or push malolactic fermentation.” Her trademark wines have finesse and elegance.

Goodfellow’s M.O. is later release. Using whole clusters his goal is to make Burgundian style wines meant to age. He offers the analogy of giving a young child a set of wooden alphabet blocks. “You might remove the more difficult letters, Z and Q. The child can make words but won’t build a broad vocabulary.” Wines, too, can be enjoyed young, but he prefers making wines that develop into a more complex experience.

Stock seems open to experimentation and challenge.  His signature style is “freshness, brightness, and wines centered on aromatics.”  He points out that he, Goodfellow, and Dutartre all have a reputation for low impact, minimal intervention wine making, each with a different interpretation.  The winemaker’s signature shows in the style of the wine.  Stock believes the Durant practice of matching winemaker with vineyard block creates unique tastes, stark differences in the wines, and an adventurous experience for the consumer.

In addition to these winemakers, Durant partners with Jess Lange of Lange Estate, Dean Fisher of Adea Winery, and Joe Dobbes of Dobbes Family Estates. Bottle prices range from $25 for Pinot noir from the Lark block to $65 for Pinot noir from their oldest block, Bishop.  More information can be found at Durant Vineyards at Red Ridge Farms.